REVIEW

Tulsi

Tamarind wizard Hemant Mathur has been charming New Yorkers with his originality and talent for some time now, having formerly manned the kitchens at Tamarind, Amma and Devi (where he earned North America's first ever Michelin star for an Indian restaurant).  At Tulsi, he serves regional Indian cuisine in an elegant, sleek setting. The narrow dining room, decorated in tones of cream and green, is bisected by one long table with curtained booths, swagged in gauzy fabric, bookending it.  It is serene, exotic and luxurious. 

Inexplicably, Tulsi is a restaurant that elicits sometimes divergent reactions (NY Magazine: "Lamb Chops are particularly offensive: 36 bucks for a foursome of overdone, forgettable chunks of meat"; NY Times: "No one in New York makes lamb chops like Mr. Mathur – heavy, ugly things caked in yogurt but tasting of gamy perfection").  Rest assured that the NY Times has the better case: Mr. Mathur's rustic tandoor-grilled lamb chops are legendary, and an obligatory order.  There are street cart chaats that change nightly, fiery Manchurian cauliflower, delicious curried monkfish with pomegranate sauce and heavenly, tantalizingly aromatic rosemary & garlic naan. This is a menu that rewards exploration and, for that reason, the vegetarian and omnivorous tasting menus deserve special consideration.

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INFORMATION

Midtown East
211 E. 46th St.
New York (nr. Third Ave.)
212-888-0820
Mon-Sat, noon-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10:30pm; Sun, 5pm-10pm
    Hermant Mathur, Chef
    Dhandu Ram, Chef de Cuisine
    Surbhi Sahni, Executive Pastry Chef

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