REVIEW

The Red Cat

Like The Harrison and The Mermaid Inn, two other upscale American restaurants opened by Jimmy Bradley, The Red Cat specializes in the kind of refined comfort food that has become Bradley’s hallmark. Like the others, the emphasis is on conviviality, hospitality, and a relaxed, warm atmosphere. The ambiance is an original intersection of New England and the Mediterranean. The alternating red and white paneling in the dining room is reclaimed barn wood from Pennsylvania, and dramatic oversized Moroccan lanterns dangle from the ceiling. The overall effect is cozy and eclectic.

Similarly, the cuisine bears the imprint of the Mediterranean and other international influences while remaining firmly American. Thus, there are addictive sautéed zucchini slivers with pecorino cheese and toasted almonds as well as Southern-inspired dishes like shrimp and grits with andouille and soft egg. The food can also be whimsical, as evidenced by the excellent tempura green beans with sweet hot mustard. The restaurant is a magnet for West Chelsea’s art crowd and retains its neighborhood feel despite the legions of culinary pilgrims descending from more far-flung regions. Bradley’s generous portions are sophisticated, but never fussy, and the restaurant is an invariably reliable option for an immensely satisfying yet relatively inexpensive meal.

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INFORMATION

Chelsea
227 Tenth Ave.
New York (nr. 23rd St.)
212-242-1122
Mon, 5pm-11pm; Tue-Thu, noon-2:30pm and 5pm-11pm; Fri-Sat, noon-2:30pm and 5pm-midnight; Sun, 5pm-10pm
    Bill McDaniel, Chef
    Colleen Grapes, Pastry Chef
    Jimmy Bradley, Owner

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