REVIEW

The Dutch

Following his immense success cooking casual, rustic Italian fare at Locanda Verde in TriBeCa, Andrew Carmellini set out to open The Dutch in Soho, a similarly casual American joint reminiscent of a neighborhood café or bistro. With a clubby design by Roman and Williams featuring intimate rooms with cream-colored brick walls and brass fixtures, skillful mixology and a young, spirited crowd, the restaurant has become a cacophonous sensation, making it exceeding difficult to secure a table during standard eating hours. Carmellini cooks an eclectic array of multicultural comfort food, offering selections with accompaniments like salsa verde, soy and daikon, crispy rice and yuzu, spicy chickpeas and tamarind and jalapeno, kumquats and bacon jam. In short, it is a thoroughly American menu. One can order lightly at The Dutch, with a simple salad of escarole, shaved mushrooms, hazlenuts and parmesan and an airy, refreshing, yet boldly flavorful black sea bass with mushrooms, crispy rice and yuzu. Or one can experience some of the heartier fare that created such a sensation at Locanda Verde: Little Oyster sandwiches from the extensive oyster bar, coated in an addictive pickled okra rémoulade, and an 18 oz. dry-aged bone-in NY strip with excellent crispy fries or a billowing rabbit potpie. Excellent homemade pies are available for dessert. Although there are a few drawbacks (the volume, mediocre service), the hype is warranted and The Dutch is one of the best casual dining restaurants in NYC.

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INFORMATION

SoHo
131 Sullivan St.
New York (nr. Prince St.)
212-677-6200
Dinner: Sun-Thu, 5:30pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 5:30pm-1am Lunch: Mon-Fri, 11:30am-3pm Brunch: Sat-Sun, 10am-3pm
    Andrew Carmellini, Chef

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