REVIEW #46

Scalini Fedeli

Scalini Fedeli, an upscale Northern Italian spinoff of a New Jersey restaurant that is housed in the space that Bouley once occupied in TriBeCa, is one of the most elegant and accomplished Italian restaurants in the city.  The romantic main dining room has a deeply old world feel to it, with dramatic vaulted ceilings, a soft, faded-yellow Tuscan glow to the walls, wood-framed stained-glass windows, and tapered candles on each table.  Though the restaurant is elegant and the attentive service relatively formal, Scalini Fedeli is far from pretentious.  The proprietors take the old-fashioned approach of simply serving delicious food in a warm, relaxed atmosphere. 

Scalini Fedeli’s food is rich and hearty, but also bears some French influences.  An appetizer of corn risotto with salmon and black truffle, crispy pancetta and veal jus is an amazing juxtaposition of flavors and textures.  The papparedelle in a game sauce with venison and hare and finished with Barolo wine and bitter chocolate is a classic.  Braised short rib is served with a cherry pepper and port wine glaze, fennel-apple purée and twice fried potatoes.  Perhaps most surprising of all is the price:  Scalini Fedeli charges $70 for its 3-course prix fixe.  You would be hard pressed to eat so well at another first-rate Italian restaurant in NYC at that price point.

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INFORMATION

TriBeCa
165 Duane St.
New York (nr. Hudson St.)
212-528-0400
Mon, 5:30-10pm; Tue-Thu, noon-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm; Fri, noon-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm; Sat, 5:30-11pm
    Michael Cetrulo, Chef

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