REVIEW

Roberta’s

Roberta's, a grungy, graffiti-graced cinderblock monstrosity in the dilapidated hamlet of Bushwick, is not a place one goes to indulge in creature comforts.  It is instead a place one goes to indulgence in arrestingly fine cuisine, served by a friendly and competent staff, in a relaxed and communal atmosphere conducive to drinking craft beer on a lazy Saturday afternoon.  The most salient article of décor in the boisterous dining room is a chain of haphazardly-strung Christmas lights. There are rough park benches and paper napkins. 

Roberta's is known principally for its pizzas, which are creatively conceived, composed of first-rate ingredients and then fired in the wood-burning oven.  But Chef Carlo Mirarchi also has a real talent with pasta, a skill even more conspicuous next door at Blanca, and items like his orecchiette with braised goat, capra sarda and breadcrumb should not be overlooked.  Roberta's grows herbs and vegetables in the garden out back, many of which appear in the market/garden section of the menu.  And there is also a wide range of salumi as well as items as varied as veal sweetbreads and grilled mangalitsa collar.  All that is gold does not glitter, and it would be easy to overlook the depth of the kitchen's talent given the location and atmosphere.  Word of mouth and the ascendance of Blanca has made this much harder to do, but Roberta's has still not achieved its proper due. 

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INFORMATION

Bushwick
261 Moore St.
(718) 417-1118
Mon-Fri, 11am-12am, Sat-Sun, 10am-12am
    Carlo Mirarchi, Chef

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