REVIEW #48

Peter Luger

It is a cliché to say that Peter Luger has the best steak in New York City. It also happens to be true. They have been serving their famed porterhouse since 1887, which is carefully selected by members of the family from among USDA prime cuts of short loin for even marbling and then dry aged on the premises. Their steaks have an ethereal quality to them – impossibly rich and buttery yet with notes of minerality  and are alternately charred and tender. Their justly lauded steak sauce, a hybrid of a cocktail sauce and a traditional steak sauce, should be liberally doused on everything from the steak to the extra thick bacon and sliced tomatoes and onions that should ritualistically begin every meal.

Dining at the original location in Williamsburg is like traveling back to an earlier, simpler era. The décor of the restaurant remains willingly frozen in time with wood floors and simple wooden tables, exposed wooden beams, burnished oak wainscoting and brass and wrought-iron chandeliers. The staff's gruff service is something of a signature, as is their refusal to take credit cards. And, lamentably, the wine list is not nearly of commensurate quality with the cuisine. But diners should simply shrug these idiosyncrasies aside as the cost of participating in a century-old tradition. This is a restaurant that has spawned many imitations, but none of the students have surpassed their master.

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INFORMATION

Williamsburg
178 Broadway
718-387-7400
Mon-Thurs, 11:45am-9:45pm; Fri-Sat, 11:45am-10:45pm; Sun, 12:45pm-9:45pm
    Macie Truskolaski, Chef

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