REVIEW #42

Il Mulino New York

This immensely stylish Old World Italian restaurant in Greenwich Village has been voted the #1 Italian restaurant in New York City for two decades Zagat's survey takers. One can feel the energy coursing through the vibrant, crowded dining room as waiters shower tables with overwhelming amounts of complimentary antipasti such as bruschetta topped with tomatoes, chunks of Parmigiano and fried zucchini. It is, at heart, a neighborhood restaurant but the softly lit dining room with its grand scale flower arrangements manages also to seem intimate and romantic despite the boisterous conviviality of its regulars. The restaurant focuses on the cuisine of the Abruzzi region (Il Mulino New York’s founders, Fernando and Gino Masci, were born in L’aquila, the regional capital of Abruzzo) and is simple, rustic and hearty. Executive Chef Michele Mazza sources the highest quality and freshest ingredients possible and the result is that the restaurant serves the finest veal parmigiana in all of New York in addition to excellent, rich pastas like the rigatoni Bolognese with braised veal, lamb and beef served in a rich tomato sauce. The service, though very proficient, can be gruff and reservation times are more honored in the breach. But with food like this, no one seems to be complaining very much.

In 2012, a new outpost was opened on the Upper East Side near the Plaza Hotel and 5th Avenue Apple Store.  The uptown incarnation of Il Mulino is minimalist and modern, with black and white mid-century photographs lining the walls.  It's a bit dissonant with the Old World approach that made Il Mulino so popular to begin with, but the restaurant is nonetheless a welcome addition to the neighborhood.  

PHOTOGRAPHS

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INFORMATION

Greenwich Village
86 W. 3rd St.
New York (nr. Sullivan St.)
212-673-3783
Mon-Fri, noon-2:30pm and 5pm-11pm; Sat, 5pm-11pm; Sun, 4pm-10pm
    Upper East Side
    37 East 60th Street
    212-750-3270
    Mon-Thurs, 11:30am-3:00pm, 5.00pm-midnight; Fri, 11:30am-3.00pm, 5:00pm-midnight; Sat, 11:30am-4:00pm, 5:00pm-midnight; Sun, 11:30am-4:00pm, 5:00pm-10:00pm
      Michele Mazza, Chef
      Gino Masci, Co-Owner
      Fernando Masci, Co-Owner

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