Gramercy Tavern

This perennially popular Danny Meyer classic in Gramercy Park earns its cult-like adoration. Although it is more rustic and casual than The Modern, the New American food by chef Michael Anthony is first rate. Anthony selects fresh seasonal ingredients and his background at the Blue Hill restaurants (which embody the “farm-to-table” philosophy) is evident. This can be seen in how intensely the vegetable component of his dishes shine, as well as in the delicacy of his smoked trout and the tenderness of his pork loin and belly.

The restaurant succeeds in replicating the feel of a comfortable tavern, with a fireplace, lit oil paintings and a wood-beamed ceiling, even if it is all a little kitschy. The competent service is, appropriately, warm and unpretentious. A more casual bar area upfront does not take reservations, but also serves excellent fare. All in all, it is one of the most dependable spots in the city for a upscale, relaxed meal.