REVIEW

DBGB Kitchen & Bar

There are neighborhoods one instantly associates with a particular chef (think TriBeCa and David Bouley, for instance).  But there are also neighborhoods that are the last place one would ever expect to find a particular chef.  Certainly no one expected Daniel Boulud, the masterful French chef who presides over an empire from his eponymous three Michelin-starred Venetian renaissance flagship on Manhattan's tony Upper East Side to open a beer and sausage restaurant on the Bowery.  It was the equivalent of David Chang leaving his perch in the gritty East Village to open a formal French restaurant uptown in the mold of La Grenouille.  

But, like most everything Boulud does, DBGB Kitchen & Bar is an exemplar of the genre.  The self-assured technique and creativity are there, as are the fetish for premium quality, fresh ingredients.  There are 12 varieties of house-made sausage, a cluster of different burgers and other seasonal Lyonnais-inspired bistro cooking.  20 beers are available on draft, and another 75 by the bottle.  This style of cuisine, which foregrounds offal, is not for everyone:  there is a Tête aux Pieds section with items like head cheese and crispy pig's feet and specialties like boudin Basque, a spicy blood and pig's head sausage.  But there are also more accessible sausages like the Beaujolaise, which is infused with red wine, pork, mushrooms and onion and upmarket burgers like the Frenchie, made with confit pork belly, Morbier cheese and a peppered brioche bun.   

DBGB is a pun on CBGB, the notorious punk club that once emblemized the Bowery.  In another allusion to the neighborhood, the interior design is industrial, a nod to the neighborhood's history as a restaurant supply district, with mirrors and glass panels all around and floor-to-ceiling shelves stocked with dry goods and tableware.  There is also a pleasant sidewalk café in seasonal weather. 

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INFORMATION

East Village
299 Bowery
New York (nr. Houston St.)
212-288-0033
6 at Bleecker St.; F, V at Lower East Side-Second Ave.
    Daniel Boulud, Chef
    Kerrie O'Brien, Sommelier
    Eli Collins, Executive Chef
    Myriam Eberhardt, Pastry Chef

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