REVIEW #63

Colicchio & Sons

Colicchio & Sons was born out of the shuttering of Craftsteak, Tom Colicchio’s ultra-high end steakhouse on a somewhat remote and barren stretch of 10th Avenue. With the arrival of the Highline and the Standard Hotel and the draw of increasingly popular adjacent restaurants like Del Posto, the area has experienced a revitalization and become ripe for the kind of upscale yet less stratospherically priced restaurant that Colicchio has substituted.

As at Gramercy Tavern, which Colicchio co-founded with Danny Meyer, there is a more casual front area that does not take reservations and a more formal dining area in the back. The best route to experiencing the sophistication of the cooking is the tasting menu, whose dishes showcase the magical alchemy that results from the application of the rigors of French technique to a highly eclectic array of ingredients and culinary influences. Although there is a bit more variability in the quality of the dishes than there probably ought to be at a restaurant of Colicchio & Son’s caliber, it is not especially more pronounced than at other similarly-priced restaurants.

Vestiges of the boom-era mentality that spawned Craftsteak remain in the classy, elegant design: towering ceilings, oversized windows, a huge glass and steel wine tower that divides the front and back dining areas. But the glitz has been offset somewhat with the introduction of more rustic touches like a wood-burning oven and stacks of logs at the entrance. There is a fine wine list (presumably a holdover from Craftsteak days) as well as a thoughtfully selected collection of beers on tap to complement the cuisine. It takes a rare focus and agility for a modern-day celebrity chef with an ever-expanding empire not to become overextended and allow standards to flag. Colicchio so far has contrived to thread that needle, to NYC’s great benefit.

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INFORMATION

Meatpacking District
85 Tenth Ave.
New York (at 15th St.)
212-400-6699
Mon-Thu, noon-10pm; Fri, noon-11pm; Sat, 11am-3:30pm and 5:30pm-11pm; Sun, 11am-3:30pm and 5:30pm-10pm
    Tom Colicchio, Chef
    James Tracey, Executive Chef
    Luke Bergman, Chef de Cuisine
    Stephen Collucci, Pastry Chef
    Ryan Mills-Knapp, Beverage Director

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