REVIEW #34

Café Boulud

What a miracle Café Boulud is — an interesting, innovative and invariably reliable first class restaurant that has managed to retain its local, neighborhood vibe. The restaurant excels at casual elegance and the best way to experience it is to sit outside when the weather is compliant, although the tasteful and intimate interior is also fine.

The constantly changing menu is divided into four categories: la tradition (classic French cuisine), la saison (seasonal dishes), le potager (the vegetable garden) and le voyage (world cuisine). The food is universally excellent, and some dishes are so good they can rival those available at Daniel. Take the celery root agnolotti, for instance, which is one of the best pasta dishes available in the city.

David Chang has described in his Momofuku Cookbook what the kitchen of Café Boulud was like during his time working at the restaurant under Andrew Carmellini: “The kitchen was like the Special Forces … There was this ferocious work ethic: get it done and make it the best. Chip-on-your-shoulder cooking. We set out to outcook Restaurant Daniel with a fraction of the staff and inferior equipment, every night. It was the best restaurant crew in New York.” The beautifully choreographed service is impeccable and the excellent wine selections (particularly by the glass) deserve special mention.

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INFORMATION

Upper East Side
20 E. 76th St.
New York (nr. Madison Ave.)
212-772-2600
Mon-Thu, 7am-10am, noon-2:30pm, 5:45pm-10:30pm; Fri, 7am-10am, noon-2:30pm, 5:45pm-11pm; Sat, 8am-10am, noon-2:30pm, 5:45pm-11pm; Sun, 8am-11am, 12am-3pm, 5:45pm-10:30pm
    Daniel Boulud, Chef
    Gavin Kaysen, Chef de Cuisine
    Noah Carroll, Executive Pastry Chef
    Blue Pilkington, Sommelier

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    RECOMMENDED DISHES See All

    • Beet Cured Scottish Salmon, Roasted Baby Beets, Horseradish, Orange Peel
    • Loup de Mer a la Dieppoise, Winter Kale, Bouchot Mussels, Saffron, Cipollini Onions
    • Brioche Crusted Loup de Mer, Herb Purée, Baby Leeks, Romanesco, Pommery Buerre Blanc
    • Sheeps Milk Ricotta Gnocchi, Broccoli Rabe, Toasted Hazelnuts
    • Tandoori Spiced Chatham Cod, Spinach Subric, Roasted Squash, Brandade Samosa, Fenugreek Foam
    • Pan Seared Halibut, Corn Flan, Fava Beans, Zucchini, Cashews
    • Celery Root Agnolotti, Chestnuts, Black Winter Truffles, Celery Leaves.
    • Roasted Duck Breast, Venere Rice, Spring Radishes, Red Beets Natural Jus
    • Lavender-Honey Glazed Duck Breast, Fregula, Spring Onion, Fiddlehead Ferns, Long Pepper Jus
    • Dry Aged Angus Beef Strip Loin
    • Caper Crusted Lamb Loin, Crushed Fava Beans, Yukon Gold Potatoes, Mint Infused Jus
    • Molten Chocolate Cake