REVIEW #36

Boulud Sud

Daniel Boulud’s new pan-Mediterranean restaurant across the street from Lincoln Center is an unqualified success surpassed only by Picholine in the breadth and depth of quality of its Mediterranean fare. The opening of Bar Boulud in 2011 across from Lincoln Center was a brilliant stroke on Boulud’s part, and he has sagely implemented a creeping takeover of the block by adding Epicere Boulud, a kind of market/deli that sells coffees, pastries and sandwiches, and Boulud Sud next door.

Boulud Sud traverses a wide geographical area, covering the essential regions of the Côte d'Azur, Spain, Italy and Greece, with nods to North Africa, Turkey, Israel and Egypt. As is typical of Boulud’s restaurants, it is an immensely polished and stylish restaurant with outstanding service.

Boulud Sud’s bright, open interior is mid-century modern with floor to ceiling windows and a vaulted curved ceiling. The yellow and green tonal palette evokes a world of lemons and limes, sunshine and greenery, Cezanne and Pissarro. Impressionist reproductions by Vik Muniz hang in the back on gorgeous pear wood paneling. There is also a spacious bar and lounge that is ideally suited to a pre- or post-performance drink and snack.

As at Café Boulud, the menu is divided into a grid of items from the sea, garden and farm. There are the Provençal staples (Soup de Poisson with Garlic Rouille, Ratatouille and Oeuf Mollet, Loup de Mer for two with Grape Sauce Vierge) as well as unexpected delights like a Sea Urchin & Crab Tartine and a Tuscan-Style Dry-Aged Rib-Eye for two. The overall emphasis is, not unexpectedly, on grilled fish and lamb and fresh vegetables, but English executive chef Aaron Chambers executes these dishes with an uncommon focus and poise. The wine list, curated by Michael Madrigale who also runs the cellar at Bar Boulud, is appropriately focused on Mediterranean wines. Tunisian-born pastry chef Ghaya Oliveira oversees the delicious dessert menu.

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INFORMATION

Upper West Side
20 W. 64th St.
New York (nr. Broadway)
212-595-1313
Mon-Sat, noon-2:30pm, 5pm-11pm; Sun, noon-3pm, 5pm-10pm
    Daniel Boulud, Chef
    Aaron Chambers, Executive Chef
    Ghaya F. Oliveira, Pastry Chef
    Michael Madrigale, Head Sommelier

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    RECOMMENDED DISHES See All

    • Sea Urchin & Crab Tartine - Green Olive, Lemon Cream, Seaweed Rye Bread
    • Octopus a la Plancha - Marcona Almond, Arugula, Jerez Vinegar
    • Charred Squid - Soup de Poisson - Mediterranean Fish Soup, Garlic Rouille
    • Lemon-Saffron Linguini - Seppia, Shaved Bottarga, Dandelion
    • Ratatouille and Oeuf Mollet - Garlic Bread Crumbs
    • Salt-Baked Loup de Mer for Two - Grape Sauce Vierge
    • Tuscan-Style Dry-Aged Rib-Eye for Two - Wild Mushrooms, Broccoli Rabe, Olive Oil Crushed Potatoes