REVIEW

BLT Fish

Restaurateur Laurent Tourondel is the fecund godfather of the wide-ranging BLT franchise, which now encompasses, in Manhattan alone, BLT Steak, BLT Prime, BLT Fish, BLT Fish Shack, BLT Burger and BLT Bar & Grill.  BLT Fish is set in a three-story Flatiron townhouse, the ground floor of which contains a casual fish shack (i.e., BLT Fish Shack) with a mounted blue marlin on the wall and a cocktail bar.  A glass elevator takes you to the grander, more formal main dining room on the third floor, with its retractable glass roof and open kitchen. 

Tourondel first honed and displayed his dexterity with seafood at Cello on the Upper East Side, which closed after several years.  At BLT Fish, he resurrects that proficiency with a dependable menu of fresh, line caught fish that is more geared toward freshness and deft execution than innovation.  The meal commences with a delectable tray of cheddar and chive biscuits with butter sitting in a pool of maple syrup and concludes with a jar of green apple cotton candy.  It's a text book lesson in restaurant hospitality done right.  The best of the selections is a roasted local amadei in a parsley root puree, which is perfectly cooked with crispy skin on top, although the whole fish for two are also worthy options.

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INFORMATION

Flatiron
21 W. 17th St.
(212) 691-8888
Mon-Wed, 5:30pm-10pm; Thurs, 5:30pm-11pm; Fri-Sat, 5:30pm-11:30pm
    Laurent Tourondel, Chef
    Amy Eubanks, Executive Chef
    Michael Bagley, Designer

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