REVIEW #75

Bar Boulud

Bar Boulud, the most casual of Daniel Boulud’s restaurants featured in our Top 100, serves classic French Brasserie fare, with a special emphasis on charcuterie, in a convenient location directly across from Lincoln Center. The restaurant offers pleasant outdoor seating on its terrace in warmer weather, making it an excellent choice for pre- or post-theater dining. Secure a booth or outdoor table if you can, as the narrow dining room can become congested and the service erratic at the sometimes cramped bar area.

The arched dining room looks as if it had been bored to operate as a subway tunnel but actually it is meant to replicate a wine cellar. The neutrally colored walls are dabbed with framed splotches of purple, tablecloth stains from famous French wines. Behind the bar is a backlit gravel wall, an allusion to the soil composition of vineyards. There is also a beautiful walk-through wine cellar downstairs en route to the restrooms. This evident devotion to wine is equally on display in its impressive, focused, thoughtfully selected wine list, which is concentrated on the Burgundy and Rhône valley regions. This focus on charcuterie and wines of the Rhône valley reflect Boulud’s Lyon heritage.

No visit to Bar Boulud is complete without an order of some of the famed pâtés and terrines. The best are the pâté grand-mère, which is cognac-infused country pâté made with chicken liver and pork, and the pâté grand-père, which is a port-infused pâté made with truffles, foie gras and coarse-cut pork. Both are served with toasted bread and mustard. There is also an excellent boudin blanc, served with truffled mashed potatoes. It is common to see diners ordering a variety of such items at the start of a meal to share. Traditional brasserie fare rounds out the selections, with excellent scallop dishes and coq au vin. The restaurant also offers one of the most satisfying brunches in NYC, with a 4-course prix fixe running $32.

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INFORMATION

Upper West Side
1900 Broadway
New York (nr. 64th St.)
(212) 595-0303
Mon-Thu, noon-midnight; Fri, noon-1am; Sat, 11am-1am; Sun, 11am-10pm
    Daniel Boulud, Chef
    Olivier Quignon, Executive Chef
    Ghaya Oliveira, Pastry Chef
    Michael Madrigale, Sommelier

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