When Andrew Carmellini, who had rose to prominence at Café Boulud, made his inevitable solo foray, culinary watchers were surprised to see him open a modern Italian restaurant on Madison Square Park rather than a more luxe uptown French restaurant. But it worked and A Voce Madison is a restaurant that is modern in the best sense—tasteful (it is trendy without being overwrought), competent but unpretentious, and comfortable.
Missy Robbins now continues the concept as executive chef and Carmellini has gone on to open Locanda Verde and The Dutch, two excellent restaurants. A Voce Columbus, a spinoff of A Voce Madison, was opened in the Time Warner Center in the spot that once housed Gray Kunz's Café Gray.
A Voce's best dishes rank among the finest in the city. Its agnolotti, filed with braised duck meat, egg and parmesan, and covered in a creamy foie gras sauce, combines beautifully with a vin cotto and balsamic and red wine vinegar glaze. In contrast to the sleekness of the design, however, most of the dishes are more rustic than this and aim at more primal satisfaction. Duck meatballs, perched on pedestals of purred celery root, stuffed with foie gras and pork shoulder and served with a cherry mostarda sauce were widely considered to be A Voce's best appetizer. Unfortunately, they are not currently available on the menu. All in all, A Voce is a solid restaurant that makes very few missteps, while offering a few true knockout successes.
10 Columbus Cir.
New York (at Broadway)
212-823-2523 Mon-Wed, 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-10pm; Thu-Fri, 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-11:30pm; Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-11:30pm; Sun, 11am-3pm and 5pm-10pm
41 Madison Avenue
(212) 545-8555 Mon-Thurs, 11:45am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm; Fri, 11:45am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm; Sat, 5:30pm-10:30pm
RECOMMENDED DISHES See All
- Ricotta - cows milk ricotta, extra virgin olive oil, mint, thyme, chilies
- Duck Meatballs with Foie Gras
- Agnolotti - sunchoke filled pasta, brown butter, walnuts, rosemary
- Trota alla griglia - trout, crispy fingerlings, bitter greens, anchovy vinaigrette
- Baccala - olive oil poached cod, blood orange, taggiasca olives, fennel
- Pancetta - pork belly, figs, balsamic, pistachios
- Cocoa pasta with duck Bolognese and pistachio nuts