REVIEW

Tin Lung Heen

Tin Lung Heen is Hong Kong’s second greatest Cantonese restaurant, after Lung King Heen in Central’s Four Seasons Hotel. Like the latter, it a luxurious hotel restaurant with dramatic waterfront views: housed in the Ritz Carlton Hotel, which, occupying the 102 to 118th floors of Kowloon’s ICC building, is the world’s highest hotel, it boasts a sweeping panorama of the Ma Wan Channel and the Tsing Ma Bridge. The dining room is a triumph of modern design – smart, stylish and possessed of a refined grandeur. Interlocking wooden blocks glow red in their lacuna, a subtle allusion to the restaurant’s name, which translates roughly as dragon in the sky. The double-height room is bracketed by two mirror image floor-to-ceiling cellars: one a team room housing premium teas, and the other housing wine. A gigantic 3 layer chandelier anchors the room in the center. The tables are very elegantly set on beautiful white linen.

The quality of the cuisine is universally high, with a handful of dishes being supreme exemplars of their type: it would be hard to find a better deboned roasted goose with plum sauce, meaty barbecued pork, crackling crispy roasted pork belly, soothing chilled mango cream or crumbling, decadent baked egg custard tart. The dim sum is also superb, in the top 10 best in the city.

The service, while very adroit and attentive (perhaps inordinately so), has one significant flaw, which is rampant and shameless upselling. At one dinner, our party of two ordered 8 dishes, including four sizeable meat courses. The waiter suggested we order another seafood dish, then said perhaps some beef? This was declined, and we then proceeded through the other categories of the menu one by one: what about some poultry? Surely some vegetables? You must have a rice or noodle dish.

After your meal, a visit to Ozone bar on the 118th floor is obligatory. The Aria 118 cocktail, made with orange vodka, sake, coconut rum, passion fruit and lychee, is the best.

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INFORMATION

Kowloon
Level 102, International Commerce Centre
1 Austin Road West
+852 2263-2270
Mon-Fri, noon-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm; Sat-Sun, 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm
    Paul Lau, Chef
    Hang Wu , Dim Sum Chef

    TAGS

    • Hong Kong
    • Cantonese
    • Chinese
    • Dim Sum
    • Best Brunch
    • Best Decor
    • Best Service
    • Best View
    • Best Wine Lists
    • Chef's Table 8 seated
    • Private Dining Room 8 private dining rooms: 6-36 seated
    • Romantic
    • Tasting Menu 6 Course Degustation

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