REVIEW

Tim's Kitchen

Have you ever met - how does one put this - a rather homely girl, not particularly well-attired, whom you nevertheless proceeded to like almost instantaneously? No? Well, us neither, but we did have a comparable experience at Tim's kitchen. Outwardly, it’s unclear what the restaurant’s charms are: it isn’t especially upscale, or particularly well-decorated, or possessed of particularly attentive or compliant service (despite the sign on the window, American Express cards are not welcome).  Evidently supposing we hadn’t wished a view of the dining room, we were seated, curiously, upstairs, in the corner, facing a plant and the bathroom door.  With that appetizing introduction, Tim’s Kitchen proceeded to charm us into submission.

Despite the somewhat silly tackiness (rich purple chairs and shiny golden tablecloths, glassed bookcases filled with Chinese opera books and memorabilia), the restaurant feels authentic, and lacks the mania of, say, The Square or Lei Garden in Wan Chai.  The atmosphere is festive, and the low corkage fee means that it’s a popular place to bring your own bottle.  And the cuisine was outstanding:  a duo of honey-glazed barbecue pork and profoundly satisfying roasted farm goose, despite being delivered lukewarm, were nonetheless alone worth the trip; a crystal king prawn was meaty, well-cooked, and nicely ornamented by the slice of Yunnan ham, and a steamed crab claw with winter melon was so tender that the meat simply fell off the claw, and the winter melon had the consistency of apple sauce.  Note that a number of the most highly-prized dishes are required to be ordered a day in advance.

At one point during a dinner, I went to the bathroom - as noted a scant several feet away - and upon returning was reprimanded by an alarmed waiter for leaving my mobile phone on the table. He explained that this was a "public area" and that people would snatch it on the way out.  I will leave you with that comforting thought about the Michelin starred restaurants in Hong Kong.

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INFORMATION

Sheung Wan
84-90 Bonham Strand
+852 2543-5919
Mon-Sun, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm
    Lai Yau-tim, Chef

    TAGS

    • Hong Kong
    • Cantonese
    • Chinese
    • BYOB Corkage Fee: $80HKD

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