REVIEW

Strip House by Harlan Goldstein

Chef Harlan Goldstein is a familiar presence in Hong Kong, having opened a string of well-regarded restaurants over the years.  He has many virtues (which perhaps do not include humility) and they are all on display here in the bold design and well-executed cuisine.  The retro décor is inspired by nostalgia for the 1940s: the windowless and intimate room is bathed in red and black, with a sumptuous, splotchy swag of velvet draped along the wall as a backdrop.  Framed black and white photos of glamorous pin-up girls line the walls (and ceiling) and red translucent lamp shades glow softly.  Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr. waft through the air.

The cocktails and cuisine have gimmicky names, alternately erotic and hubristic.  Of particular note, are his “Amazing Beef Steak Tartare”, which comes with an organic slow-cooked egg, and the “Sickest Crab Cake On the Planet”, an exaggeration, but full of wonderfully sweet crab meat and lobster Cajun sauce.  The corn-fed beef is “wet aged” (i.e., sealed in airtight bags and aged in its juices) for 80 days and grilled on a high-powered, 1,200 degree gas grill to char the exterior and seal in the juices.  We found the cuts to be nicely flavored and textured – all in all, a solid steakhouse.  If you are male, you will no doubt experience the infamous men’s urinal – two swollen red lips open wide – that is, depending on your perspective, just a bit of cheeky entertainment or just plain in poor taste.  But unmistakably Harlan Goldstein.

This is a self-proclaimed “New York Steakhouse”, and I don’t have a problem with the Michelin Guide, whose bewildering choices in Hong Kong I have long ceased to be surprised by, awarding it one star, as it is a fine restaurant; however, if they are going to do so, there are 15 or more superior steak houses in New York that they need to recognize:  Del Frisco’s, Costata, Sparks, Wolfgang’s, Arlington Club, Porter House and, not least, NYC’s own (unrelated) Strip House, whose name and red and black bordello chic décor predates Goldstein’s by several years.

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INFORMATION

Central
5/F GRAND PROGRESS BUILDING NO.15-16 LAN KWAI FONG CENTRAL
+852 2521-8638
    Harlan Goldstein, Chef

    TAGS

    • Hong Kong
    • Steakhouse
    • American (Traditional)
    • BYOB Corkage Fee: $500HKD

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