REVIEW

Gold by Harlan Goldstein

The aptly named Gold, flagship restaurant of Harlan Goldstein, is both a pun on his surname and the organizing design motif of the restaurant. The dramatic dining room is accented with gold hues throughout, from the circular island bar at the entrance to a rippling back wall. Most conspicuous of all though is the ceiling and its massive swirling concentric circles that protrude like an air conditioner nozzle or a speaker. It’s a bold touch, like the man and the cooking. But despite the grandness of the design, the restaurant has a warm and intimate ambience. On a typical night, it is full of a well-heeled clientele conversing animatedly.

Although the cuisine is most fittingly described as Italian, it is really more eclectic than that, and borrows ingredients and elements from other genres of cuisine. Broadly speaking, it is a style of Italian that goes for the jugular – hearty and heavy. Goldstein loves to melt organic and slow-cooked eggs over dishes and shower them with truffles. In my view, the quality of the cuisine is generally quite high but never really reaches ethereal heights; I can count roughly 30 restaurants in New York City that are of equal or better quality, for instance, although one must remember that NYC is blessed with very fine Italian dining.

Chef Harlan Goldstein is a familiar presence in Hong Kong, having opened a string of well-regarded restaurants over the years. He is known to have a no nonsense, borderline brash personality, a relic of his Lower East Side roots, perhaps. When two dainty English wine merchants he recognized came in, he strode over to serve them personally, creating a completely customized tasting menu for them and personally shaving white truffles over their dishes. When one raised an eyebrow at the proposed “nitrogen surprise dessert” he cheerfully reassured him that “the only thing I do molecular is the dessert. I like to f*** around with desserts, but everything else is real food.” That sentence encapsulates perfectly all you need to know about Harlan Goldstein, the restaurant and the man.

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INFORMATION

Central
Level 2 LKF Tower33 Wyndham Street Lan Kwai Fong Central
+852 2869-9986
Mon-Thu, noon-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm; Fri-Sat, noon-2:30pm, 6:30pm-11pm
    Harlan Goldstein, Chef

    TAGS

    • Hong Kong
    • Italian
    • Pizza
    • Al Fresco
    • Best Decor
    • Best Service
    • BYOB Corkage Fee: $400HKD
    • Private Dining Room Private Dining Room: 8 seated

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