REVIEW

Felix

This renowned and ultra-contemporary restaurant and bar on the 28th floor of The Peninsula hotel was famously designed with avant-garde gentility by Philippe Starck.  It is perhaps most famous for its view, described as a “galaxy of lights between Victoria Peak and Hong Kong habour” by the restaurant’s website.  However, on all the nights we were there, the only glowing galaxy we observed was through the filter of lowered blinds.  Practically the only place to get an unencumbered view is in the loo, which infamously simulates the sensation of urinating into Kowloon Park.

Alighting from the elevator corridor, there are two symmetrical snail-like staircases that curl up to the American Bar and The Balcony.  The cocktails at Felix are truly outstanding.  If you are man enough to admit your predilection for girly island drinks, try the Sum King, with rum, passionfruit juice and mango juice (but order it instantly upon walking into the restaurant, or better yet, just call ahead: ours took half an hour to arrive and came after we had finished the first course.)  And for goodness’ sakes, stick to the cocktails. While we normally don’t remark upon a restaurant’s prices (see here), the wine list serves items like Chateau Montelena chardonnay, which retails for about $45 a bottle, for a vertiginous $32 a glass.  And is it really reasonable to charge $13 for a single “still water”?  We’ll play Russian roulette with the Hong Kong tap water next time.  

The main dining room is decorated in aqua and white, and is more chic than luxurious.  The wine list and modern European menu are contained on an iPad, with which you add selections to a virtual shopping cart.  Although the cuisine at Felix is beautifully presented and capable of reaching a high standard, we found that there was often something slightly off in each dish.  One doesn’t want one’s chilled confit of Tasmanian salmon frozen to the point of chattering teeth, nor does one want to have to saw one’s dessert in order to eat a bite, causing a devastatingly loud and jarring clack with your spoon every time you successfully split the log.  But the “Skyscraper”, a roasted challons duck breast with leg confit, whose accompaniments were whimsically (and rather gimmickingly) set atop the glass dish dome, had great depth of flavor and came with a delicious chickpea cake.  And the “Carbonara”, whose ingredients of deep-fried langoustine, bacon consommé, cream and parmesan water would likely be delicious no matter what you did with them, was both intelligent and delicious. You can have a great meal at Felix, but the primary reason people go is because it is iconic, for the view and for the cocktails.

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INFORMATION

Tsim Sha Tsui
Salisbury Road, Kowloon
+852 2920-2888
Mon-Sun, 6pm-12:30am
    Yoshiharu Kaji, Chef
    Philippe Starck, Designer

    TAGS

    • Hong Kong
    • European contemporary
    • Best Bars
    • Best Decor
    • Best View
    • BYOB Corkage Fee: $400HKD
    • Private Dining Room The Wine Bar: 12 seated The Crazy Box: 20 seated

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