Hong Kong is a city that, despite its wealth, is not particularly well-known for its cultural scene. And anyone who has spent much time visiting apartments here or dining out knows that aesthetic concerns often take a back seat to functionality (and feng shui). So it is a wonderful addition to the city’s culinary landscape to have a stylish and chic new Cantonese restaurant that is dedicated to exhibiting art and bringing artistically minded people together. Spread out over two floors, Duddell’s is a mixed use space with an upscale Cantonese restaurant on the bottom floor and a salon, members-only library and 2,200 sq. ft. leafy garden terrace on the second floor. It has rapidly become a place for the smart set to see and be seen.
The chef, Siu Hin Chi, is a former chef of the impressive T’ang Court. At Duddell’s, the cuisine is decent without being first-rate, and soberingly priced. As an example of the mixed bag nature of its cuisine, take two dishes that are well-known dim sum classics at Lung King Heen: the baked abalone puff with chicken and the steamed lobster dumpling with shrimp and scallop. Duddell’s abalone puff was fishy, barely edible, while it’s steamed lobster dumpling was actually better than Lung King Heen’s. (The best dim sum incidentally is a crispy taro puff with shrimp and pork.) Obviously, you’re paying in large part for the ambience, but the cuisine, if not among the absolute best in Hong Kong, is generally serviceable enough and is beautifully presented.
After your meal, head upstairs to the well-appointed bar for a drink and a stroll on the expansive verdant terrace and peruse the excellent 20th century modern ink on paper art hung on the walls. One of the founders (Paulo Pong) runs a wine distributor, so the wine list is generally pretty affordably priced. The exciting thing about Duddell’s is that you could easily envision a restaurant like this thriving in NYC or London, so perhaps it’s a harbinger of the future for Hong Kong.
Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion
1 Duddell Street
+852 2525 9191 Mon-Thurs, noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, noon-3pm, 6pm-1am
- Hong Kong
- Dim Sum
- Al Fresco
- Best Brunch
- Best Decor
- Private Dining Room
- Michelin Guide : ★★ (2015) Review History...
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