REVIEW

Café Gray Deluxe

Café Gray Deluxe is the eponymous restaurant of Gray Kunz, a chef who trained with Fredy Giradet in Switzerland, then ran Plume, the flagship restaurant of the Regent (now home to Spoon by Alain Ducasse) and then opened the legendary Lespinasse in NYC’s St. Regis Hotel.  He is now back in Hong Kong with Café Gray Deluxe, a sophisticated but relaxed modern European restaurant on the 49th floor of the Upper House, a boutique hotel in the Admiralty district.  Styled as a “21st century grand café”, the restaurant has a sleek, contemporary design with slatted wood and warm textures, and a renowned bar and cocktail program. Most saliently, there are stunning views of the skyline and Victoria Harbour. 

The cuisine offers interesting combinations of flavors, such as a bell pepper harissa stuffed squid that is served with spiced couscous and chorizo or a grilled marinated skirt steak in kecap manis with Chinese long beans and jicama relish whose extremely tender meat takes almost like a Sichuan dish, with the heat sizzling your tongue for minutes afterwards.  The cuisine can be uneven, with some dishes failing (a grilled lobster tail with Australian black truffle and corn risotto that was fishy, meager-portioned and with no discernible hint of black truffle), but some succeeding fantastically (a hazelnut Paris brest with tossed strawberries and rhubarb was one of the better cold desserts we’ve had).  The energetic atmosphere, stunning views and serious cocktail program made it well-suited for a smart, yet casual night on the town.

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INFORMATION

Admiralty
The Upper House, 88 Queensway
+852 3968 1106
Mon-Sun, 6:30am-10:30am, noon-2:30pm; 3:30-5:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm
    Gray Kunz, Chef
    Lee Tak Sum, Executive Chef
    Yvonne Cheung, Sommelier
    Andre Fu, Designer

    TAGS

    • Hong Kong
    • European contemporary
    • Best Bars
    • Best Decor
    • Best Service
    • Best View
    • BYOB Corkage Fee: $500HKD
    • Private Dining Room Private Dining Room: 12 seated
    • Romantic

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