REVIEW

Terramia

This unprepossessing restaurant in the North End is actually one of Boston's finest Italian restaurants.  The décor is simple:  plain stucco walls, a beamed ceiling, large pane windows that look out onto Salem Street, soft lighting, about a dozen tables.  It looks and feels like a family-run business in Tuscany.  Virtually all of the guests appear to be regulars, and the atmosphere is convivial and informal.

The understatement of the décor is nicely offset by the boldness of the regional Italian cuisine, which is prepared simply with fresh, seasonal ingredients.  Although the cuisine has one foot firmly planted in tradition, unconventional and modern touches abound.  Lobster fritters are served with a tangy balsamic honey glaze.  Rich pastas, like a ravioli served open-faced with scallops, shrimp and zucchini in a lobster mascarpone sauce or a rigatoni alla Bolognese will leave even the heartiest eater satiated.  When the chill of winter sets in, this cozy trattoria is the perfect spot for a hearty and homey meal.

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INFORMATION

North End
98 Salem Street
(617) 523-3112
Sun-Thur, 5pm-10pm, Fri-Sat, 5pm-10:30pm
    Joshua M Breen, Chef

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